Full description

Overview

Introduced at Watches & Wonders Shanghai, the Freak [X OPS] is Ulysse Nardin’s stealthiest take yet on the Freak X – a watch defined by the idea of “no hands, no dial, no boundaries.” Instead of hiding the movement under a dial, the Freak [X OPS] makes the UN-230 calibre the main visual element: it rotates once per hour, with one bridge serving as the minute hand and another indicating the hours.

The result is a piece that feels more like wearable kinetic sculpture than a conventional watch: technical, architectural and uncompromisingly modern, with a strong military-inspired khaki and black colour palette.

Case, materials & wrist presence

The Freak [X OPS] combines several advanced materials to create a light, tough but visually striking case:

• Black DLC titanium case, bezel and crown for low weight and high scratch resistance

• Khaki green carbon-composite flanks in Ulysse Nardin’s “Magma” material – a blend of black carbon fibres and green epoxy resin, meaning each case has a unique pattern

• 43 mm diameter with a thickness of about 13.38 mm, water-resistant to 50 m / 5 bar

The khaki carbon “Magma” flanks were first seen on the Freak X Magma in red; here the same technique is used with green epoxy, giving the case a tactical, almost camouflage feel while keeping the irregular, Damascus-like carbon pattern.

A khaki green fabric strap with hook-and-loop (Velcro-style) fastening completes the look, making the watch comfortable, secure and easy to adjust – very much in line with the [X OPS] “operations” theme.

On the wrist, the watch wears bold but not overwhelming: the 43 mm diameter is balanced by the curved titanium case, low weight and textile strap, while the green and black palette keeps the overall look technical and stealthy rather than flashy.

No dial, no hands: how the display works

In a typical mechanical watch, a movement hides behind a dial, and thin metal hands sit on top. The Freak [X OPS] inverts this idea completely:

• • There is no traditional dial – instead, you see a blackened movement with bridges and indexes picked out in khaki green Super-LumiNova®.

  • There are no separate hands – the flying carousel movement itself rotates once every hour.

  • A central bridge that carries the balance wheel and escapement acts as the minute hand.

  • A second, shorter bridge beneath it serves as the hour hand, pointing to the hour markers around the periphery.

This makes every glance at the watch a small mechanical show: you are not just reading the time, you are watching the movement orbit the dial.

At night, the khaki green Super-LumiNova® on the hour/minute indicators and markers glows green, reinforcing the tactical aesthetic and ensuring legibility in low light.

Calibre UN-230 & silicon innovation

Powering the Freak [X OPS] is the UN-230 manufacture calibre, a self-winding movement that fuses elements of the UN-118 and the high-tech UN-250 from the Freak Vision.

Key technical points:

• Automatic (self-winding) flying carousel movement rotating around its own axis

• Approx. 72-hour power reserve

• Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph

• Silicon balance wheel and escapement, with an oversized silicon oscillator, nickel flyweights and stabilising micro-blades for reduced mass and improved stability

• Around 200+ components and 21 jewels (component count varies slightly by source but underlines the complexity of the architecture)

The Freak collection has long been a showcase for Ulysse Nardin’s silicon technology. In the [X OPS], the ultra-light silicon balance and escapement are fully visible on the dial side, making the watch both a technical statement and a visual one.

Who is this watch for?

The Freak [X OPS] is not a generalist watch, and that’s exactly the point. It is ideal for:

• Enthusiasts who want a high-end independent watch that looks and behaves nothing like a traditional dial-and-hands piece

• Collectors drawn to technical watchmaking and silicon innovation, rather than just classic complications

• Buyers who prefer a modern, tactical aesthetic – titanium, carbon, khaki fabric, green lume – over precious metals and dress-watch norms

• Owners who already have “standard” luxury sports watches and want something far more avant-garde as their next piece

Benefits

• No traditional dial or hands – the movement itself becomes the time display, creating a constantly moving mechanical spectacle on the wrist.

• Advanced materials – black DLC titanium with khaki carbon-composite flanks, combining lightness, toughness and a unique case pattern every time.

• UN-230 automatic flying carousel movement with a 72-hour power reserve and silicon balance/escapement for modern performance.

• Khaki green Super-LumiNova® on indexes and bridges for strong low-light legibility in a matching colour tone.

• Tactical, wearable design – 43 mm, 50 m water resistance and fabric strap make it a realistic daily option for those comfortable with bold design.

Use cases

• Daily wear for avant-garde collectors – a watch that makes sense technically and practically, but looks like nothing else in the room.

• Weekend and travel watch – light titanium, fabric strap and 50 m water resistance make it well suited for casual and active environments.

• Conversation piece at watch meet-ups – the flying carousel and silicon oscillator are immediate talking points among enthusiasts.

• Anchor independent in a collection – for someone whose box is full of Patek/AP/Rolex, this is the piece that shows a different, more experimental side of high horology.

FAQ

Q1: Does the Freak [X OPS] really have no dial and no hands?

A1: Correct. The watch has no traditional dial and no separate hands. The UN-230 flying carousel movement itself rotates to indicate the time, with one bridge acting as the minute hand and another indicating the hours.

Q2: What is special about the case material on the Freak [X OPS]?

A2: The watch uses a black DLC titanium case and bezel, combined with khaki green carbon flanks in “Magma” composite – a blend of black carbon fibre and green epoxy resin. This makes each case visually unique and keeps the watch relatively light and robust.

Q3: How long is the power reserve on the UN-230 movement?

A3: The UN-230 manufacture calibre provides an approximate 72-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run for about three days off the wrist when fully wound.

Q4: Is the Freak [X OPS] suitable for everyday wear?

A4: With its titanium/carbon case, fabric strap, 50 m water resistance and robust automatic movement, the watch is certainly suitable for everyday wear. That said, its design and price level mean most owners will still treat it as a high-end piece and avoid unnecessary impacts or harsh environments.

Q5: Does this watch come with box and papers?

A5: This watch is offered as a full set with box and papers.

Q6: Can I see the watch in person or via video?

A6: Absolutely, you can make an appointment at any time by submitting the form below or contact us via WhatsApp or phone call at +971585251224.